Barceloneta apartments: what staying by the beach is really like

Some people come to Barcelona and never set foot on the beach. Others want to go for a swim before breakfast and walk home with a towel over their shoulder. If you're in the second group, Barceloneta is probably your neighbourhood.

We've had flats here for years and we know it well, the good and the not so good. This is what we'd tell a friend.

A neighbourhood shaped by the sea

Barceloneta didn't grow like the rest of the city. It was laid out in one go in the mid-18th century (the definitive works began in 1753), on a triangle of land next to the port. That's why it has such a regular grid of narrow streets and long, thin blocks.

The original houses were very simple single-family homes, with a ground floor and one storey above. They were mostly home to families who worked at sea: fishermen, caulkers, port workers. Over time those houses were split up and extra floors were added. That's how the famous quarts de casa came about: rented homes of around 28 square metres that ended up being the most common kind of flat in the neighbourhood.

That explains two things you'll notice straight away. The buildings are narrow and tall for the width of the street. And the flats, on the whole, are small.

It's still a neighbourhood with a lot of character. Washing hanging from the balconies, neighbours who've known each other all their lives, bars where everyone talks at full volume, and the church of Sant Miquel del Port, the neighbourhood's patron saint, on one of its squares.

The beaches

Barceloneta is the gateway to the city's coastline. From south to north, the beaches closest to hand are:

• Sant Sebastià. The one nearest the port and one of the most traditional. It's long and much used by locals, including members of the swimming clubs next to it.
• Sant Miquel. Shorter, in front of the heart of the neighbourhood. It takes its name from the church of Sant Miquel del Port.
• Barceloneta. The best known and one of the oldest in the city. It's also the busiest in summer.

Beyond that come Somorrostro and the Port Olímpic beaches, if you fancy a walk along the seafront.

Our advice: in July and August, go down early. First thing in the morning the beach is a different place. And outside summer, a walk along the seafront is one of the best things to do in the city, swim or no swim.

Eating in Barceloneta

The market

The Mercat de la Barceloneta is on Plaça del Poeta Boscà, right in the middle of the neighbourhood. It keeps its original 19th-century iron structure and was thoroughly renovated by the architect Josep Miàs, in works completed in 2007. It's a proper neighbourhood market with good fish. If your flat has a kitchen, it's worth a morning visit.

Seafood, tapas and vermouth

Barceloneta is the place in Barcelona for something from the sea. A few pointers:

• The midday vermouth. The habit of fer el vermut before lunch is very much alive here, with a tin of cockles, some crisps or a few olives.
• Bombas. A big potato croquette filled with meat, served with aioli and a spicy sauce. La Cova Fumada is often credited with inventing it, and it's still a neighbourhood classic.
• Rice dishes and fish. There are lots of restaurants on the seafront. The ones on the inner streets tend to be more local.

As always, when we hand over the keys we'll recommend the places we like at the time. And here's a rule that never fails: the further you are from the seafront, the more locals you'll find.

Getting around from here

On foot

This is one of the area's big advantages. From Barceloneta you can walk to most of the centre:

• To El Born: in ten to fifteen minutes you're between Santa Maria del Mar and the Picasso Museum. There's more in our El Born guide.
• To Port Vell: about ten minutes, round the marina.
• To the Gothic Quarter and Las Ramblas: a bit further, but easy on foot. More in our Gothic Quarter and Las Ramblas guide.
• To Parc de la Ciutadella: close by, and ideal for a shady afternoon with children.

Metro

Barceloneta station is on L4 (yellow). The next stop towards the centre is Jaume I, between the Gothic Quarter and El Born, and the line carries on to Urquinaona and Passeig de Gràcia. For the Sagrada Familia, stay on L4 to Verdaguer and change to L5, which drops you at the basilica's door.

What's worth knowing before you book

We love Barceloneta, but it isn't for everyone. We'd rather you knew before you came.

• Noise in summer. In high season there's a lot of street life until late, especially on the streets nearest the seafront and at weekends. If you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs.
• Crowds. In August, Barceloneta beach and the promenade fill up. That's the price of staying in the most seaside neighbourhood in the city.
• Narrow stairs. Many of the old buildings here have narrow, steep staircases, and not all of them have a lift. If you're travelling with big suitcases, a pushchair or someone with reduced mobility, ask us about the specific flat first.
• Small flats. Because of the neighbourhood's history, flats here are smaller than in the Eixample. Most of ours are one-bedroom, designed for two or three people.
• Beach theft. Don't leave anything valuable alone on your towel. It's the usual advice, and it applies here more than most places.

If you're a large family or a group and need space, our Sagrada Familia area, with bigger flats, might suit you better.

Our flats in Barceloneta

At HiBcn we have nine flats spread across the neighbourhood's streets, all a few minutes from the beach. Most are one-bedroom, for two or three people. There's also a split-level flat, a couple with a balcony and a renovated one with sea views. On Airbnb, our Barceloneta flats have an average rating of 4.6, from around 250 reviews.

Three of them are for stays of a month or more only, including both of our two-bedroom flats there. They're a good option if you're coming to work, study or spend a season by the sea. You'll find them under monthly stays.

How staying with us works

We're a Barcelona family business with more than fifteen years' experience and 38 apartments in four areas of the city. We meet you in person at the flat to hand over the keys and tell you what you need to know about the neighbourhood. Check-in is from 2 pm and check-out is by 11 am. The tourist tax isn't included in the price and is paid on arrival, by card or in cash. Booking on our website gets you 8% off the accommodation.

You can see photos and availability for all the flats on our Barceloneta page, or compare them with the other neighbourhoods on our apartments page. If you can't decide between two flats, drop us a line and we'll honestly tell you which suits you best.