Where to drink vermouth in Barcelona like a true local

Few customs sum up Barcelona's Mediterranean way of life better than fer el vermut: having a vermouth before lunch, with some olives, crisps and good conversation. While many visitors stick to sangria or cava, people here know that vermouth is where it's at. And it's not just a drink, it's a whole outing.

Here are some of the best places to have one the way it's done here.

A bit of history

Vermouth arrived in Catalonia at the end of the 19th century, and Reus became one of its great production centres. By the early 20th century it was the social aperitif par excellence, and many neighbourhood bodegas made or served their own. After a few decades in decline, the tradition is back stronger than ever.

What makes a good vermouth

A proper vermouth comes with:

• A glass with ice, a slice of orange and an olive
• If you like, a splash of soda water from the siphon
• Something to nibble: anchovies, stuffed olives, crisps or boquerones en vinagre (anchovies in vinegar)

The best places for vermouth in Barcelona

1. Morro Fi (Eixample)

The vermouth bar that kicked off the city's new vermouth wave, with its own vermouth and good tinned seafood. The original bar, on Carrer del Consell de Cent, is tiny, noisy and full of personality. Today the group has several bars.

2. Bodega d'en Rafel (Sant Antoni)

An old-school bodega opposite the Sant Antoni market. Vermouth, home-made tapas in the display case and neighbourhood regulars at the bar. Order, point at whatever takes your fancy and stand, like everyone else.

3. El Xampanyet (Born)

A classic bodega a few steps from the Museu Picasso. It's usually packed, but it still draws plenty of locals for its atmosphere and its anchovies. Get there early, because it fills up quickly.

4. Quimet & Quimet (Poble-sec)

Standing room only, walls lined with bottles, and a house vermouth that goes wonderfully with the montaditos of tinned seafood they make at the bar. A family bodega since 1914 and a must. Check the opening hours before you go: it usually closes at weekends and in August.

5. Bodega Quimet (Gràcia)

A 1950s bodega on Carrer de Vic that still sells wine from the barrel. A neighbourhood feel, good cured meats and an unhurried vermouth for a lazy lunchtime.

6. Bar Calders (Sant Antoni)

In a charming passage off Carrer del Parlament, it's one of the liveliest spots for vermouth, especially at weekends. It has a good terrace.

7. Bodega La Puntual (Born)

On Carrer Montcada, with the feel of an early 20th-century bodega and vermouth on tap. A good place to start a tapas crawl with a vermouth and something salty.

Tips for the perfect vermouth

• Pick your time: between 12 and 2pm is vermouth time.
• Order the house one: many bars have their own vermouth or one from the barrel.
• Pair it well: salty and sharp flavours suit it best.
• No rush: it's not just about drinking, it's about slowing down.

Bonus: a vermouth route across the city

Start in Gràcia at Bodega Quimet, head down to the Eixample to stop at Morro Fi and carry on to Sant Antoni, for Bodega d'en Rafel or Bar Calders. On a weekday you can drop into Poble-sec for Quimet & Quimet and finish in El Born, at La Puntual or El Xampanyet. You'll see very different styles, from the most traditional to the most fashionable.

First visit or old friend of Barcelona, having a vermouth in a neighbourhood bar is practically compulsory. It's how people here meet up, celebrate and enjoy themselves. So raise your glass and do vermouth the Barcelona way. And if you're looking for a base near these neighbourhoods, here are our apartments.